Thursday, 30 October 2014

Crochet Rag Rug Pattern

Free Crochet Rag Rug Pattern

Crochet Rag Rug Pattern

This rag rug is small, measuring only 23 inches wide by 18 inches high, but its visual impact is huge and dramatic thanks to the vibrant colors. My rug is comprised of colorful batik print fabrics, which definitely make a statement; if you use different fabrics, your rug's "personality" is likely to turn out completely different, depending on the prints or colors you choose. You could use this same pattern to make rugs in a variety of different looks, from country casual to tropical chic.

This size rug would make a nice welcome mat or bath mat.

Materials:

Fabric Cut Into Strips: To crochet my sample rag rug, I used a bit less than two bundles of Stripz fabric strips. If you're cutting your own fabric, you'll need about 7 yards of woven cotton fabric at about a 46 inch width. For best results, it's a good idea to cut your fabric on the bias (diagonal.)

I cut my fabric into strips measuring about 1.25 inches high by about 46 inches wide. Then I stitched the strips together end-to-end to make one long continuous strip. Since my fabric edges were frayed, an additional step was necessary: I folded the frayed edges inward and then stitched all the way down the strip to secure them. Then I wound the strips into a big rag ball.

If your fabric edges aren't fraying, you can skip the extra work of stitching the edges inward.

Crochet Hook:

I used a size N - 9.0 mm hook to crochet the sample rug. Note: it's a good idea to go by the measurement in millimeters rather than the US hook size. I noticed that different hook manufacturers have different size "N" hooks. For the record, I used a Boye hook.

This size hook could be used as a starting point, but I'd encourage you to use whatever hook feels most comfortable in your hands as you are crocheting with the fabric. You may need a different size hook to achieve a comfortable tension for the way you crochet.

Also, take frequent breaks and rest your hands often. Crocheting with fabric can be really hard on your hands.

Gauge:

One full repeat of 3 dc sts + 1 ch = about 2 inches, give or take a bit. With a rag rug, it's normal for your your stitches to be a little uneven.

If you have plenty of fabric strips on hand, gauge is not critically important for this project, as there's no compelling reason you'd need to make your rug exactly the same size as my project sample. The biggest concern would be running out of material. As long as you have enough fabric, and it looks like the rug will turn out to be a size you can use, I wouldn't worry too much about the gauge. If you're short on fabric strips, that's a different story; in that case I'd recommend matching my gauge closely to avoid running out of material.

Finished Size: My sample rug measures about 23 inches wide by 18 inches high.

Bigger Rag Rugs: If you want to make your rug bigger, you can crochet a longer starting chain, adding multiples of 4 stitches. Keep in mind that you'll need more fabric if you choose to crochet a larger rug.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:

Design Notes:

Starting with row 2, work in front loops only throughout.

If you want your rug to have more than one color, there are a couple of ways you can approach it. If you're OK with the color changes being random, the easiest way to do it is to stitch different colors of fabric together into the same rag ball. This is how I did mine. If you want more control over where the color changes occur, you can make separate rag balls and then do color changes whenever you want to attach a new color. That's up to you. I haven't written any color changes into the pattern, so feel free to put them wherever you want them.

If you don't know how to do color changes, here's a free tutorial: How to change colors in crochet. The tutorial shows you a demo using yarn, but you can use the same technique with fabric. Make your stitches loose for best results.

The turning chain counts as 1 dc st throughout.

Project Instructions:

Ch 52.

Row 1: dc in third ch from hook. 1 dc in ea of next 2 dc sts. [ch 1, work 1 dc in ea of the next 3 sts.] Repeat the sequence in brackets all the way across the row.

Row 2: ch 4, turn. The first 3 ch sts count as 1 dc; the 4th ch st counts as 1 ch st. [Skip the next st. Work 1 dc st in ea of the next 3 sts, ch 1.] Repeat the sequence in brackets all the way across the row. End the row with a group of 3 dc sts.

Repeat row 2 until your rug is the size you want it to be.

End off. You can weave in your ends as usual, and if you like you can stitch them down using a sewing needle and thread for extra security.

Click here for full article from About.com

Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Crochet Socks–Free crochet Pattern

Basic Crochet Socks Pattern

Basic-Crocheted-Socks

These Basic Crocheted Socks are great to make. They're versatile and allow you to brush up on your crochet skills. These are an easy crochet pattern you can give to a friend or keep for yourself. Use Lion Brand wool yarn to complete this free crochet pattern, and make one in every color. Warm feet are happy feet during the cold winter months!

Crochet Hook: G/6 or 4 mm hook, H/8 or 5 mm hook

Yarn Weight: (4) Medium Weight/Worsted Weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Size
Women's S (M)
Sample shown: 10" long x 8.5" around ball of foot (25 cm x 21.5 cm)
Materials
• Lion Brand Lion Wool (www.lionbrand.com/yarns/lionWool.html) 100% wool (3 oz/85 g, 158 yd/144 m ball): 2 balls #113 Scarlet, or colour of your choice
• Crochet hooks sizes G-6 and H-8 (4 and 5 mm) [sizes H-8 and I-9 (5 and 5.5 mm)], or size to obtain gauge
• large-eyed, blunt needle
Gauge
For S: 5 single crochet = 1" (2.5 cm) with size H-8 (5 mm) hook.
For M: 4 single crochet = 1" (2.5 cm) with size I-9 (5.5 mm) hook.
Be sure to check your gauge.
Notes
These socks are easy to make in one flat piece. When finished, they will resemble Turkish knitted socks, with the heel appearing to stick out when folded. On the foot, however, they fit exactly as a commercial sock.
The leg can be made longer by crocheting the leg section an inch or two (2.5 – 5 cm) longer. The length of the foot can also be increased, ensuring that the top and bottom of the foot are the same length.
Ribbing
With smaller hook, chain 11.
Row 1: Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, single crochet in each chain across, turn – 10 single crochet.
Row 2: Chain 1, working in back loops only, single crochet in each single crochet across, turn – 10 single crochet.
Repeat Row 2 for 40 more rows. Do not turn. Working along side of ribbing, work 1 single crochet in each row, turn – 40 single crochet.
Leg
With larger hook, work back and forth in single crochet, working through both loops, on 40 stitches until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from beginning of sock. Cut yarn.
Top of foot
Row 1: With right side facing and larger hook, join yarn in 11th stitch from edge, chain 1, single crochet in same stitch, single crochet in each of next 19 single crochet, turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, single crochet in each single crochet across. Turn – 20 single crochet.
Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 6" (15 cm) above joining or desired length, allowing 2" (5 cm) for toe, ending on wrong side. Note: The heel will add another 2" (5 cm). Measure foot and subtract 4" (10 cm) total for heel and toe to determine desired length.
Top of toe
*Row 1: Chain 1, decrease 1 single crochet in next 2 single crochet, single crochet across to within last 2 single crochet, decrease 1 stitch in next 2 single crochet, turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, work even in single crochet, turn.
Repeat last two rows until 10 single crochet remain, ending with Row 2.
Bottom of toe
Row 1: Chain 1, 2 single crochet in first single crochet, single crochet across to last single crochet, 2 single crochet in last single crochet, turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, work even in single crochet, turn.
Repeat last 2 rows until there are 20 single crochet.*
Bottom of foot
Work even on 20 single crochet until piece measures 6" (15 cm) or same length as straight portion of foot.
Heel
Repeat from * to * as for toe shaping. Fasten off.
Finishing
Sew back leg seam. Fold sock in middle of the toe and sew both sides of foot. Fold the heel in half, as with toe, and sew sides. Position the heel piece so that centre of heel is in line with leg seam, and sew.

Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Tympany Pom Pom Hat–Free Knitting Pattern

Tympany Pom Pom Hat Berroco Knitting


Tympany
Skill Level: Easy
Project Type: Hats/Scarves/Gloves

Tympany is an earflap hat with mitered squares and a pompon finish.
One size
Size
Approximately 21” around x 7 1/2” high (not including earflaps)
Materials
1 Ball each Berroco Sox Metallic (100 grs), #1364 Kiwi (A) and #1366 Mangosteen (B)
16” Length circular knitting needle, size 2 (2.75 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
1 Set (5) double pointed knitting needles, size 2 (2.75 mm)
Crochet hook, size 4.00 mm (F)
Tapestry needle
1 St marker
Clover Art.No 3124 Pom Pom Maker (optional)
Gauge
30 sts = 4”; 40 rnds = 4” in St st
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
Bottom Band
Square 1: With dpn’s, using B, cast on 72 sts. Divide sts onto 4 needles (18 sts per needle) and join, being careful not to twist sts. Mark for beg of rnd and carry marker up. Knit 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd: * K2 tog, k to last 2 sts on needle, SSK, rep from * 3 times more – 64 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Rep Dec Rnd every other rnd until 8 sts remain. Break off yarn leaving an 8” long end. Thread end into tapestry needle and draw through all sts on needles. Pull up tightly and secure.
Note: Squares should be joined in a straight line with Square 8 joining the line into a ring.
Squares 2-7: With RS facing, using dpn’s and B, pick up and k18 sts along one edge of previous square, then cast on 54 sts – 72 sts. Complete same as Square 1.
Square 8: With RS facing, using dpn’s and B, pick up and k18 sts along one edge of previous square, cast on 18 sts, pick up and k18 sts along one edge of Square 1, then cast on 18 sts – 72 sts. Complete same as Square 1.
Crown: With RS facing, using circular needle and A, pick up and k144 sts along one edge of band (pick up 18 sts along edge of each square). Mark for beg of rnd and carry marker up. Work even in St st (k EVERY rnd) until piece measures 7” from lower edge of band.
Shape Top: Dec Rnd 1: * K2 tog, rep from * around – 72 sts. Knit 2 rnds. Divide sts onto 4 dpn’s, keeping marker at beg of rnd.
Dec Rnd 2: Rep Dec Rnd 1 – 36 sts. Knit 1 rnd.
Dec Rnd 3: Rep Dec Rnd 1 – 18 sts. Break off yarn leaving an 8” long end. Thread end into tapestry needle and draw through all sts on needles. Pull up tightly and secure.
Finishing
Place marker between 2 square of band for center back of hat.
Right Earflap: With RS facing, using circular needle and A, skip first 13 sts of square to the left of marker, pick up and k5 sts in remaining sts of first square, 18 sts across next square, then 5 sts in first 5 sts of next square – 28 sts. Work even in Garter St for 1”, end on WS.
Dec Row: K2, k2 tog, k to end. Rep this dec EVERY row 19 times more, end on WS – 8 sts. Bind off.
Left Earflap: With RS facing, using circular needle and A, skip first 2 square to the right of marker, then skip 5 sts of the next square. Pick up and k5 sts in the 5 sts of that square, 18 sts across next square, then 5 sts in first 5 sts of next square – 28 sts. Complete same as right earflap.
Edging: With RS facing, using crochet hook and 2 strands of A held tog, work in sc around entire lower edge of hat and earflaps, join with a sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
Ties (Make 2): Cut two 30” long strands of A and one 30” long strand of B. Put strands tog and fold in half. Insert crochet hook in lower edge of earflap from RS and pull loop through. Insert ends of strands through loop and pull up tightly fastening strands to earflap. Braid strands tog and knot at end leaving 2” free for tassel.
Pom Pom: Using both colors make 1 pom pom with the largest size pom pom maker following the instructions on the package.


Visit Berroco here for more free patterns.

Saturday, 25 October 2014

Crochet Hexagon Bag–Crochet Pattern

Hexagon Market Bag–Free Crochet Pattern

Image of Hexagon Market Bag

Source - lionbrand.com
Lion Brand® Kitchen Cotton

GAUGE:

One Hexagon = about 6 in. (15 cm) across. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:

3-dc Cl (3 double crochet cluster) Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops rem on hook), (yarn over, insert hook in same st, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 2 times (4 loops rem on hook) yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
4-dc Cl (4 double crochet cluster) Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (2 loops rem on hook), (yarn over, insert hook in same st, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times (5 loops rem on hook) yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.

NOTES:

1. Bag is made from 10 Hexagons, 2 each of 5 different color combinations.
2. Hexagons are worked in the rnd with RS facing at all times. Do not turn at the ends of rnds.
3. Handles are worked in rnds of sc, after the Hexagons have been sewn tog.

HEXAGON I (make 2)
With A, ch 6; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 2, 3-dc Cl in ring, (ch 3, 4-dc Cl in ring) 5 times, ch 3; join with sl st in top of first cluster - 6 clusters at the end of this rnd. Fasten off A.
Rnd 2: With RS facing, join B with sl st in any ch-3 sp, ch 2, (3-dc Cl, ch 3, 4-dc Cl) in same ch-3 sp (corner made), *ch 3, (4-dc Cl, ch 3, 4-dc Cl) in next ch-3 sp (corner made); rep from * 4 more times, ch 3; join with sl st in top of first cluster - 12 clusters at the end of this rnd. Fasten off B.
Rnd 3: With RS facing, join C with sl st in any corner ch-3 sp, ch 2, (3-dc Cl, ch 3, 4-dc Cl) in same ch-3 sp (corner made), ch 3, 4-dc Cl in next ch-3 sp, *ch 3, (4-dc Cl, ch 3, 4-dc Cl) in next ch-3 sp (corner made), ch 3, 4-dc Cl in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 3; join with sl st in top of first cluster - 18 clusters at the end of this rnd. Fasten off C.
Note: In next rnd, take care to work dc as instructed, not clusters.
Rnd 4: With RS facing, join D with sl st in any corner ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 2 ch-3 sps, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner ch-3 sp, 3 dc in each of next 2 ch-3 sps; repeat from * 4 more times; join with sl st in top of beg ch - 72 dc at the end of this rnd.
Fasten off.

HEXAGON II (make 2)
Make same as Hexagon I, using B for Rnd 1, C for Rnd 2, D for Rnd 3, and E for Rnd 4.

HEXAGON III (make 2)
Make same as Hexagon I, using C for Rnd 1, D for Rnd 2, E for Rnd 3, and A for Rnd 4.

HEXAGON IV (make 2)
Make same as Hexagon I, using D for Rnd 1, E for Rnd 2, A for Rnd 3, and B for Rnd 4.

HEXAGON V (make 2)
Make same as Hexagon I, using E for Rnd 1, A for Rnd 2, B for Rnd 3, and C for Rnd 4.

FINISHING
Following Assembly Diagram, whipstitch the Hexagons tog. Fold piece along dashed lines, matching A with B, and C with D. Whipstitch side seams.

Handles
From RS, join B with a sl st in side seam between Hexagons I and III.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, *work 14 sc evenly spaced across side of Hexagon III to ch-2 sp at top point, ch 72, beg at ch-2 sp at point of Hexagon I, work 14 sc evenly spaced across side of Hexagon I to side seam (first handle made); rep from * for 2nd handle; join with sl st in first sc - 144 ch and 56 sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch around; join with sl st in first sc.
Rnds 3 and 4: Ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with sl st in first sc.
Fasten off.

Edging
From RS, join B with sl st in any st on inside edge of first handle. Work sc evenly spaced around inside edge of handle and top edge of Bag; join with sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
Rep edging on 2nd handle.
Weave in ends.